Grand central

Set at the heart of the ancient Silk Road in central Asia, Uzbekistan is full of surprises, finds Ellie Fazan. Uzbekistan was once a thriving hub on the world’s most important trade route, the Silk Road, welcoming travellers from all over the known world.

Yet last year, it received just shy of 9,000 British visitors. That could be set to change. Its fascinating history and spectacular architecture earned it the accolade of top emerging destination at last month’s Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards. With tourism still in its infancy, but poised to take off, Uzbekistan could be just the answer for those wanting to get off the beaten track.

Lost in a constellation of blue and gold tiles in the farthest reaches of Samarkand’s medieval Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum (pictured), my celestial musings are interrupted by a film crew from the local TV station. Tipped off that foreign tourists are here, they want to know what we think. No wonder they’re keen to speak to us, given how vital tourism is to the country’s economy.

Total visitor numbers are growing rapidly, more than doubling between 2017 and 2018 to 5.3 million. The government has ambitious plans to increase that even further, and earlier this month, introduced visa-free entry for citizens of 45 countries, including the UK. Uzbekistan practically tingles with history, and a journey to the most central of the ’Stans is an incredible opportunity to be immersed in culture and traditions that have been slowly seeping west for 3,000 years. From the humblest ceramic pot to the grandest minaret, ancient arts are evident everywhere you look.

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A realm of one’s own